For any serious beer enthusiast, visiting Pilsner Urquell Brewery in Pilsen is nothing short of a pilgrimage. This is where, on October 5, 1842, brewmaster Josef Groll created the world's first golden lager, forever changing the course of brewing history.
The Historic Significance
Before Pilsner Urquell, most beers were dark, cloudy, and often inconsistent in quality. The citizens of Pilsen had grown so frustrated with the poor quality of their local brews that in 1838, they rolled 36 barrels of beer into the town square and poured them down the drain in protest.
This act of defiance led to the construction of a new citizens' brewery and the hiring of Josef Groll, a Bavarian brewmaster who brought with him new techniques including bottom fermentation with Bavarian yeast, local Saaz hops, Pilsen's remarkably soft water, and pale Moravian malt.
The result was a clear, golden beer with a distinctive hoppy bitterness and refreshing finish that would eventually be copied by brewers worldwide. Today, Pilsner-style lagers account for roughly 90% of all beer consumed globally.
What to Expect on the Tour
The brewery offers several tour options, but the most comprehensive is the Underground Tour, which takes visitors through the entire brewing process and into the historic cellars where beer still matures in oak barrels.
The Brewing Exhibition
Your journey begins at the visitor center, where interactive exhibits explain the brewing process and the science behind what makes Pilsner Urquell distinctive. You will learn about the four key ingredients and how they combine to create the characteristic flavor profile.
The Historic Cellars
The highlight of any visit is descending into the labyrinthine network of cellars that extend nine kilometers beneath the brewery. These sandstone tunnels, carved in the 19th century, maintain a constant temperature of 6-8 degrees Celsius, perfect for lagering beer.
Here, you will taste unfiltered, unpasteurized beer directly from oak barrels where it matures for at least 30 days. This experience offers a taste that even regular Pilsner Urquell drinkers will find revelatory, as it is significantly different from the bottled or canned versions available in stores.
The Cooperage
Pilsner Urquell is one of the last breweries in the world to maintain an active cooperage, where skilled craftsmen still make and repair the oak barrels used for lagering. Watching these artisans work is a fascinating glimpse into a nearly lost craft.
Practical Information
Getting to Pilsen
Pilsen is located approximately 90 kilometers west of Prague, making it an easy day trip from the capital.
By Train
Direct trains run frequently from Prague's main station (Praha hlavni nadrazi) to Pilsen (Plzen hlavni nadrazi). The journey takes about 1 hour and 40 minutes. The brewery is a 15-minute walk from the train station.
By Bus
Regular bus services connect Prague to Pilsen, departing from Prague's Florenc bus station. The journey takes approximately 1 hour and 15 minutes.
By Car
Take the D5 motorway west from Prague. The journey takes about one hour. Parking is available at the brewery.
Tips for Your Visit
- Book in advance: Tours can fill up quickly, especially during peak season (May-September) and weekends.
- Wear comfortable shoes: You will walk on uneven surfaces and climb stairs in the cellars.
- Bring a jacket: The underground cellars are cold (around 6-8 degrees Celsius) year-round.
- Pace yourself: The tour includes beer tastings, so consider your transportation home.
- Visit the museum: The Pilsen Brewery Museum in the city center complements the brewery tour with additional historical context.
- Explore Pilsen: The city itself is charming and worth exploring, with beautiful architecture and excellent restaurants.
Beyond the Brewery
While in Pilsen, consider visiting the Pilsen Brewery Museum, located in a historic malt house in the city center. It offers a deeper dive into the history of brewing in Bohemia and includes a 15th-century beer cellar.
The city also boasts the impressive Cathedral of St. Bartholomew with the tallest church tower in the Czech Republic, and the Great Synagogue, the second largest synagogue in Europe.
A visit to Pilsner Urquell Brewery is more than just a tour; it is an immersion into the history of modern brewing. Standing in the same cellars where Pilsner was born, tasting beer from oak barrels in the cool underground passages, you will understand why this place is sacred ground for beer lovers worldwide.